The Art Sheaux at Fanjeaux

One hour west of Ginestas and half an hour west of Carcassonne lies a village that combines several of my favorite things about the Languedoc. Fanjeaux is a classic old village set on a hilltop with spectacular views of the Lauragais plain below. It is full of historical significance. And it has embraced its history with a modern art installation that tells its story. While you may not have ever heard of Fanjeaux, you should add it to your bucket list.

I knew of Fanjeaux from reading about significant events in the timeline of the Cathars in the Languedoc. But I had never been, and I hadn’t actually planned to go. At least not yet. But I happened to run across it one day when I was heading towards the castle of Montségur. Recognizing the name, I decided to drop in and take a look. I never made it all the way to Montségur that day, but the stop was well worth it.

Let me step back for a minute and talk about Fanjeaux’s place in Cathar history. It’s early 1207 and the dispute between the dualist Cathars and the Catholic Church has been simmering for years. Diego of Acebes (the Bishop of Osma) and one of his junior priests, Dominic of Caleruega, are headed back from a mission in Denmark to the bishopric in Osma, about 220 km west of Zaragoza, Spain. They stop in the village of Fanjeaux, where Dominic founds a convent in an abandoned church.

The Lauragais, which surrounds Fanjeaux, is known to be a haven for the Cathar faithful. With tensions growing between the factions, the Cathars request that the Catholics engage in a theological disputation, essentially the 13th century equivalent of an epic rap battle. The disputation occurs just down the road from Fanjeaux, in the walled city of Montréal. In the blue corner, representing the Catholic Church, are Diego, Dominic and two monks from the Abbaye de Fontfroide (a post about this is forthcoming) - Pierre de Castelnau and Raoul de Fontfroide. In the red corner, representing the alleged heretics of the Cathar faith, Guilhabert of Castres, future Bishop of the Cathar Church in Toulouse, then currently residing in Fanjeaux. His tag teammates: Arnaud Hot, Pons Jourda, Benoit of Termes, soon to be the Bishop for the Cathar Church in Razès, and Esclarmond of Foix, the sole female participant. Let's get ready to RUUUUMMMMMMBBBBLLLLLEEEEE!

For the next two weeks, the battle of wits rages in Montréal. Four judges – two nobles and two burghers – preside. Not surprisingly, given the gender relationships of the time, the Catholic delegation was not terribly receptive to the participation of Esclarmond. Even though many Cathar “priests” were women (parfaites), the Catholics did not allow women to become priests. Legend claims that at one point during the debate, one of Dominic’s followers accosts Esclarmond, saying “Madame, go to your spinning. This debate is no place for you.”

Before the final judgment, history records that the sides decided to test their positions by throwing written versions into the fire and seeing what happened. Catholic records note that the paper of the Cathars was consumed entirely, but the missive tossed in by Dominic rose up out of the flames unblemished.

Despite the so-called fire miracle at Fanjeaux, with two weeks of debate complete, the judges decide that no one can take any more. Unrecorded history suggests that the debate ends in a tie. The only surviving written records, all of which were written by the Catholics, bemoan the bias and unfairness of the judges (was there a 13th century version of Simon Cowell, perhaps?), suggesting that the Cathars may have actually won.

This was the last time the sides met to discuss things amicably. In 1208, Pope Innocent III officially launched the Albigensian Crusade, which eventually exterminated the Cathars in the Languedoc.

Beginning in 1209, Fanjeaux was chosen to be the headquarters of the Albigensian Crusade’s version of Darth Vader, Simon de Montfort. He would remain here, using Fanjeaux as a base for attacks against the Cathars of the Lauragais, until 1214.

Well after the end of the Albigensian Crusade, Fanjeaux was destroyed during the “Ride of the Black Prince,” Edward of Woodstock, son of Edward III.

Fanjeaux today has a fantastic, modern, multi-media art installation by Loïc Tellier that depicts the Cathar history of the region. A path through the town takes you past a series of steampunk metal sculptures, each representing a different event or type of person. Accompanying the statues are a series of poems, including poems by a 12th century Occitan troubadour, Peire Vidal.

Leading from the lone chevalier sitting just outside the edge of town, to the Cathar giving the rite of consolamentum next to the church, to the guardian of the home of Saint Dominique, to the massive engine of the crusade on the other side of town, the statues culminate with the gathering at the disputation. Here, there is one of the best views in town.

If you grow tired of statues, on the edge of town there is a small alley (Chemin de la Favorine) lined with a vivid storyboard series of paintings. I’ll let you decide what it means for yourself.

Unfortunately, I was in Fanjeaux while all restaurants and bars in France were closed. I can’t wait to return on a day when I can enjoy lunch and a glass of wine at La Table Cathare while once again soaking in the history of Occitanie. I’d love for you to join me.